Gathering at the Confluence of Chandrabhaga River
In the heart of the Himalayas, close to Keylong's district headquarter, stands the awe-inspiring Chandrabhaga Sangam. Here, three majestic rivers - Chandra, Bhaga, and Yuman - meet in a graceful, harmonious dance. The unique Baralacha Massif serves as the sole source for these three coveted rivers, making it a distinctive jewel in the Himalayan family of peaks and passes.
Chandra and Bhaga journey for many miles alongside the sacred Drilbu Mountain, while Yuman trickles towards Zanskar. They eventually converge at Tandi, sharing one identity - the Chandrabhaga River - until it ultimately merges into the sea, nourishing countless civilizations from Lahul to Jammu Kashmir, Punjab, and Pakistan.
The ancient scripture Rig-Veda dubbed this river as Asikni, while in its Nadi-Stuti Sukat, the hymn of praising rivers, it was glorified with other revered rivers like Ganga, Yamuna, Sarasvati, and Sindhu. During the period of Puranas, the river was known as Chandrabhaga.
Shiv Puran acknowledges the range starting from Chanderkhani in Kullu to Drilbu in Lahul as Chanderbhag Mountain, with rivers beneath adopting accustomed names. Shiv Puran also recounts the meditation of Devi Sandhya at the confluence of Chandrabhaga, who was the mother of Rishi Vashisht.
According to Bhagwat Puran, Rishi Vashisht wed at this confluence, and Sakand Puran asserts that a holy dip in Chandrabhaga holds the same merit as a dip in the Ganges. Vaikunt Puran links this river with Lord Shiva, while Matsaya Puran claims that the wind brushing against this river gains medicinal properties, benefiting all.
After Asikni and Chandrabhaga, the third name given to this sacred river was Chenab, reflecting the influence of Urdu-Farsi (Persian) on Indian literary and Mughal administrative worlds. Chenab becomes noteworthy when recalling the eternal love stories of Heer Ranjha, Sohni Mahiwal, and Suni Bhunku, making it the River of Love.
Historian Tsering Dorje posits that Urdu-Persian people, upon first seeing Chandrabhaga or Asikni, might have thought they were heading for China and called it Aab-E-Cheen (water of China), which further evolved into Chenab.
A historian named Anil Bharti, in his article "Killing of Alexander in the field of Chandrabhaga", describes penetrating details about the battle between a brave Dogra and the Greek Commander Alexandra. Given here, is retribution for India's honor, ultimately leading to the legendary commander's demise.
Lahaul, home to the Lahaul Buddhist people, has a fascinating tradition of simultaneously worshipping Shiva and Buddha under one roof, a practice known as the Element of Kailash. The Buddhist scriptures also associate the history of Chandrabhaga with various esteemed Buddhist masters like Mahasiddha Ghanta Pa (Drilbu Pa), Gyalba Gotsang Ba, Gyalba Urgyan Pa, Tag Tsang Ras Pa, and Gyalba Gyatso, who have meditated and established spiritual practices alongside this river, under the sacred peak of Drilbu Ri.
Buddhist texts such as Sutpitak, Apdanpali, Vimanbattu, and other ancient scriptures also reference the Sangam. Buddhists of the valley call it Tang-Ti, meaning the water of heavens, and the last rites (Asthi Visarjan) of every Buddhist are performed in this sacred, consecrated confluence of Chandrabhaga. Chandrabhaga Sangam is one among the eight great funerals of India, known as Dudthod Chenmo in Buddhist beliefs.
Fabled Droupadi, wife of the illustrious Pandava brothers, took her last breadth here while moving towards the heavens. Her last rites were performed by local people who found her nearby the confluence of Chandrabhaga. The locals showed her immense respect for two days before learning her identity, thereby establishing a relationship of mother and sons with Droupadi through appropriate rites and then performing her last rites.
The water of Chandrabhaga holds a divine essence, as the mortal remains of its forefathers are preserved within it. Testing has shown that the water does not decay for decades, mirroring the shrouded waters of River Ganges.
When the valley fell under Buddhist influence, the practice of immersing mortal remains in the river was transformed into a more elaborate Tsa-Tsa celebration, featuring the decoration of the dead body and a parade on horseback for its funeral from various corners of the valley. Buddhist monks later mixed the remains with clay, creating small Buddhist Stupas, and immersing them in the Sangam.
The revival of the Tsa-Tsa ritual occurred in 2016 when tribute was paid to VHP leader Ashok Singhal by immersing his mortal remains in this holy Sangam in the form of Tsa-Tsa. Buddhist monks brought the ancient Tsa-Tsa ritual back to life, attracting people from every corner of this frontier land to participate in the grand Chandrabhaga Sangam Parv.
Prof. C. M. Parsheera, a tourism professor at Himachal Pradesh University, Shimla, and a Lahaul native, is the founder of Chandrabhaga Sangam Parv. He has published several books on the history of the Chandrabhaga River. You can email him at [email protected]
To reach the Chandrabhaga Sangam, venture 102 kilometers from Manali on the Manali-Leh highway. Take HRTC buses from Manali or hire a taxi for the journey. The Sangam Parv is celebrated on the 29th of June every year.
Located near the Sangam, you'll find three accommodation units for guests: Drilbu Retreat, Shirtung Camp, and Chandrabhaga Camp. Additionally, there are several hotels in Keylong, just 7 kilometers away.
Travelers on a spiritual journey through the Himalayas may also choose to explore the lifestyle surrounding the Chandrabhaga Sangam, as it was a significant site for meditation and spiritual practices for various religious figures, including Mahasiddha Ghanta Pa (Drilbu Pa) and Shiv Puran's Devi Sandhya.
In the realm of sports, the serene and picturesque landscapes around the Chandrabhaga Sangam offer ample opportunities for travelers seeking outdoor activities. Adventurers can embark on treks to the nearby Baralacha Pass, providing exciting challenges and breathtaking views of the landscape.
