Unreported Images from Afghanistan: A Glimpse Beyond the Headlines (30 Photos Included)
Venturing off the Beaten Path: Exploring Afghanistan's Wakhan Corridor
Two Weeks in the Remote Mountains of Afghanistan
Missing Afghanistan's People Amid Current Struggles
I spent two weeks trekking through the rugged and beautiful Wakhan Corridor in northeast Afghanistan in the summer of 2016. The memories from this exceptional adventure still linger in my mind, but I must admit, I am saddened and outraged by the current state of Afghanistan.
War, terrorism, and the Taliban have long been associated with Afghanistan, but there's another side of this country that often goes unnoticed – the incredible beauty, hospitality, and kindness of its people. In this remote and mountainous region, I encountered people whose hopes and dreams were no different from my own – simply to survive, find happiness, and provide for their families.
*Beyond the Headlines: Exploring the Heart of Afghanistan
When thinking of Afghanistan, images of war, terrorism, Osama Bin Laden, and the Taliban might spring to mind. However, much of Afghanistan remains dangerous, yet stunningly beautiful and full of warmth and kindness. It's too easy to judge a whole nation without really knowing its people.
The Wakhan Corridor, in Badakhshan Province, is one such area where the stark realities of Afghanistan converge with a hidden beauty that hardly makes the headlines. Here, I was able to experience the best and worst of Afghanistan up close and personal.
Witness the "Other" Side of Afghanistan
Exploring the Wakhan Corridor felt like stepping back in time. A narrow strip of land about 400km long, it is bordered by Tajikistan, China, and Pakistan, and dominated by the Pamir mountains in the north and the Hindu Kush mountains in the south. This region was created as a buffer zone between British India and the Russian empire during the Great Game, a series of political confrontations between the British Empire and the Russian Empire in the 19th century.
During my hiking adventure, I traveled primarily on foot and even managed to hitch a ride on a yak from a group of Wakhi men guiding their animals through the mountains. Yaks proved to be the ultimate eco-friendly 4x4 in Afghanistan, able to climb steep, rocky terrain and power through icy rivers. In areas above 10,000 feet, there are no trees, so locals have to hike for days to gather firewood for cooking and warmth.
Ancient Silk Road Trails
The Wakhan region has significant historical ties with the ancient silk road, a trade route connecting China to Europe. Along with silk, horses, and other goods, the route was a highway for armies and explorers. Walking its trails, I felt like I was getting a glimpse of what the silk road must have been like centuries ago. I passed caravans of yaks and donkeys, spent nights in stone shelters with traveling merchants, and crossed high mountain passes.
Many Faces of Islam
In the Wakhan Corridor, I met members of the Ismaili branch of Islam, practiced by 25 million people worldwide. Ismailis adhere to a moderate interpretation of Islam and are separate from, and often disdain, the Taliban. The spiritual leader of Ismailis is the Aga Khan, a wealthy and charismatic British businessman who heads the Aga Khan Development Network, a prominent humanitarian organization working to improve living conditions and opportunities for the poor in Africa and Central Asia.
Untamed Blue Rivers
The Wakhan River, running through the Wakhan Corridor, is fed by glaciers in the Hindu Kush mountains. The bright blue color of the water comes from the reddish hues of the rock formations around it and the crystal-clear source. Water molecules absorb other colors, like red, more efficiently than blue, leaving the river a distinct, blue hue.
Welcoming Afghan Hospitality
One of the highlights of my trip was the hospitality I received from the local people. I was constantly greeted with “As-salāmu ʿalaykum” (peace be upon you), a common greeting in Afghanistan, and was welcomed with open arms into their homes and yurts. Shaking hands and placing my hand on my heart were common gestures of friendship, and saying “taschakor” (thank you) became an essential part of my vocabulary.
Women in Afghanistan
Many people asked if I saw women in Afghanistan. Yes, I did, but their shyness made it difficult to interact with them, especially since taking photographs of women was an awkward proposition. However, in more rural areas, women dressed in colorful clothes with simple headscarves, and I did manage to speak with some of them.
Ancient Afghan Petroglyphs
I stumbled upon several ancient petroglyphs during my trek. These mysterious markings, etched into dark-colored boulders overlooking the valley, were possibly several thousand years old and depicted hunting scenes, with men armed with bows and large game like ibex, as well as rare Marco Polo sheep.
Schools in Afghanistan
I visited a small school built by the Central Asia Institute, founded by Greg Mortenson, who is best known for writing the bestselling book Three Cups of Tea. This institute aims to build schools for girls in Pakistan and Afghanistan, and I was happy to witness its work firsthand in Afghanistan's remote Wakhan Corridor.
Backcountry Camping in Afghanistan
Camping in the wilds of Afghanistan was an unforgettable experience. I had packed a lightweight Nemo Hornet 2P tent to cope with the lack of trees during my trek. Although it snowed several times during the journey, even in August, I was grateful for the tent's durability and warmth.
The Roof of the World
The Kyrgyz people of Afghanistan are semi-nomadic, moving their herds from valley to valley depending on the season. They live in cozy yurts made of sheep felt, which can be moved long distances. I was fortunate to spend several nights in these settlers' homes, experiencing their culture and warmth.
Salty Yak Milk Tea
Both the Wakhi and Kyrgyz people of Afghanistan drink large amounts of salty milk tea, known as Sheer Chai. It's a mixture of yak and goat milk, boiled down for hours and dried into a portable block. To prepare the tea, boiling water, loose-leaf tea, and rock salt are added. The salt helps with rehydration at high altitudes and is a kind of homemade Afghan Gatorade. I became quite fond of this unique drink during my adventure.
Staying at Wakhi Settlements
During my expedition, I traversed areas where communication was nearly impossible without the help of a local translator/guide and horseman. We spent several nights in Wakhi settlements, where I had the opportunity to get to know the villagers and their way of life.
Children of the Wakhan
Life for children in the Wakhan Corridor is tough, with about 60% dying before the age of five. Those who survive are put to work helping their families with their businesses – herding livestock, for example. Despite the difficulties, I saw the spirit of resilience in these children that was both heartwarming and inspiring.
Wildlife in Afghanistan
I was hoping to catch a glimpse of a snow leopard or the famous Marco Polo sheep during my journey, but these rare and elusive animals are difficult to spot. However, I did see camels, which were a pleasant surprise. The Wildlife Conservation Society is working to protect these and other endangered animals in the Wakhan Corridor.
A Glimpse of Another Afghanistan
My trip through the Wakhan Corridor provided a different perspective on Afghanistan – one that isn't often seen on the news. While I can't deny that Afghanistan is a dangerous place, I hope that one day its problems will fade away and more travelers will be able to enjoy the incredible beauty and warm hospitality of this amazing country.
A message to the reader
While traveling, it's essential not to rely solely on media depictions of a place. A country like Afghanistan is more than its violent headlines and deserves to be explored, understood, and admired. Whether you choose to visit Afghanistan or support its people from afar, remember that every person in this beautiful land has dreams and hopes, just like you.
If you wish to help Afghans, please consider donating to reputable humanitarian organizations or advocating for increased and continued aid. Your support can make a difference in alleviating suffering and supporting recovery efforts.
Recommended Reading
- How to Visit the Afghan Wakhan – A comprehensive guide to traveling in the Wakhan Corridor, including essential information and safety tips.
- 30 Travel Photography Tips – Improve your photography skills and capture stunning images on your next adventure.
- The Best Online Photography Classes – A list of the most popular and effective online photography courses to help you take your skills to the next level.
- How to Pick a Travel Backpack – Tips and recommendations for finding the perfect backpack for your next travel adventure.
- My Complete Travel Gear Guide – A comprehensive guide to the essential gear every traveler needs for their adventures.
Join the Conversation
- Facebook – Share your thoughts and experiences on traveling to Afghanistan in our community.
- Instagram – Share your favorite travel photos from Afghanistan with the hashtag #wakhanwanderlust.
- Twitter – Connect with other travelers and discuss your experiences exploring Afghanistan with the hashtag #afganadventures.
- The Wakhan Corridor, a stunningly beautiful and remote region in north-east Afghanistan, offers a different perspective on the country, showcasing its hidden beauty, warmth, and kindness.
- Despite the dangerous state of Afghanistan, it's essential to look beyond the headlines and witness the heart of the nation, where its people strive for survival, happiness, and the pursuit of their dreams, just like anyone else.
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